With this hack we show you how to level the MakerBot Replicator+ 3D Printer Flex Build Plate by adjusting the screws on factory pre-leveled support platform.
In our previous article, “Top 5 Tips to Fix MakerBot Replicator+ 3D Print Warping”, we discussed how you can go about troubleshooting your MakerBot Replicator+ to fix print warping due to prints not sticking to the Flex Build Plate by checking several aspects of the 3D printer. This was useful for some, but as we mentioned at the end of the article, our issue seem to be due to our build plate not being leveled properly.
We don’t know how this happened as it seemed that our warped prints due to poor adherence of our prints to the Flex Build Plate got worse over time since the time we purchased the MakerBot Replicator+ 3D printer. Also, we stated in our troubleshooting article that “sadly, because there is no way to adjust the level of the Flex Build Plate, we will have to find an alternative way to fix this issue”. We recommended that you check your warranty to see if you can get MakerBot to help you with the issue or fix your build plate platform.
Since our warranty ran out some time ago, this was not an option for us. Many alternatives were looked at by us, and they all failed. We even thought of trying to bend the build plate platform slightly to fix the issue.
Our problem was that we only needed to raise the front of the build plate platform about a millimeter to fix that problem, but with the MakerBot Replicator+, it might as well have been 100 miles since there was no way to adjust it…or so we thought!
One day we noticed that there were some recessed screws under the build platform that attaches the slotted build plate holder to the build platform. This led to a revelation, that maybe we could adjust these screws to raise or lower the slotted build plate holder, thereby raising or lowering the attached Flex Build Plate. By adjusting these three screws on the bottom of the build plate platform, we successfully leveled our previously un-level-able Flex Build Plate!
Before you attempt to level your Flex Build Plate, be sure you have first tried resolving your issues with our other tips in our “Top 5 Tips to Fix MakerBot Replicator+ 3D Print Warping” article. If they all failed you can then attempt to level your Flex Build Plate platform by closely following these steps below.
Disclaimer: Though we have used this to fix our systems, we are not responsible for any issues that might occur to your system(s) by you following this guide. Please check with the manufacturer or your service provider prior to following this or any guide to be sure you will not cause any issues with your system or void any warranties.
List of Required Tools to Level the MakerBot Replicator+ 3D Printer Flex Build Plate
- 4 mm Hex Allen Wrench Tool*
- T15 Star Wrench Tool*
- Digital level (you can use a bubble level, but it will be hard or next to impossible to see slight adjustments)**
*These tools were based upon the screws we found under our printer build plate platform. Check your printer’s platform to see if you require a different tool.
**We were able to use an app on our cell phone that utilized the phone’s gyroscope to act as a level. You can search your phone’s app store to find a suitable level app if you like. It just needs to be able to measure changes of 1/10th of a degree.
Steps to Level the MakerBot Replicator+ 3D Printer Flex Build Plate
Step 1. Power Down the 3D Printer
Turn off the power of your MakerBot Replicator+ 3D printer by flicking the switch on the back of the printer into the off position. While you are back there unplug the power cord and the USB cable if it is attached to the back of your printer.
Step 2. Raise the Build Plate Platform
You’ll need to gently raise the build plate platform to access the screws underneath it. Be sure to do this gently to not break the screw motor it is attached to.
Step 3. Locate the Screws
There are three screws you’ll need to locate underneath the build plate platform. Two are located near the front side of the printer on opposite ends of the build plate platform. The third screw is located near the center back side of it.
The two screws in the front require the 4 mm Hex Allen Wrench Tool. The one screw in the back requires the T15 Star Wrench Tool. You may need to place the system on it’s back side to get a clear site of where these screws are located before returning it back on its bottom to perform the leveling.
Step 4. Place Level On Flex Build Plate
With the Flex Build Plate attached to the build platform, place your level in the center of the plate. Be sure that the grip surface you plan on using is installed on the Flex Build Plate.
If you are using a traditional level, you’ll need to be sure to lay the level in either the center x-axis or y-axis to figure out which side is off. We found that the side we needed to adjust was the side we experience detachment of our print from our Flex Build Plate. If you have a center bubble level, you can just place it dead center on your platform.
As we stated above, a digital level with the ability to detect a change of 1/10th of a degree will work better than most traditional bubble visual levels.
Step 5. Adjust Screws to Level Flex Build Plate
If you determined which side you will need to adjust, place your wrench tool in the screw from underneath and adjust it to either raise or lower that side of the Flex Build Plate. You may be tempted to achieve perfection of a x and y = 0.0°, but this could lead to inadvertently damaging your build plate or extruder.
Depending upon how far off you are in your measurement from a leveled bed, I recommend doing either ¼ or ½ turns of the screw in the direction you need to move it before testing. Though this will make the process take a little longer, it is the safest way to figure out the perfect bed level. As a rule, tightening the screw lowers build and loosening the screw raises the build plate on that side.
CAUTION: Please note that you need to be careful not to go too far in raising or lowering by turning the screws as they are what hold the slotted build plate holder on the platform.
Also, do not over tighten the screws. You more than likely need to start by raising a side of the platform. It is more preferable to raise a side at the start than to try to lower it, as you may risk striping the screw or slot by trying to lower it by over tightening the screw.
Step 6. Lower the Flex Build Plate Platform
Remove your level tool from the platform and gently slide the Flex Build Plate platform back down to the bottom.
Step 7. Power Up the 3D Printer
Plug back in your power and usb cords into the back of your MakerBot Replicator+ 3D printer. Flip the switch on the back of the printer into the on position and allow the system to fully power and load back up. This may take a few minutes.
Step 8. Perform the Z-Offset Calibration
Once the system has fully booted back up, navigate from the main menu and perform a Z-Offset Calibration, which is located under the settings. Follow the instructions of the calibration until it completed.
CAUTION: If the extruder nozzle moves across the build plate and makes a catching noise on the grip surface as it moves, you’ll need to try and stop the calibration. This means you have raised one side too high and you will need to lower the offending side some. Do this by repeating steps 1 through 8 again and lowering the that side by either a ¼ or ½ turn of the screw during step 5. If your nozzle didn’t catch on your grip surface, you can move forward.
Step 9. Install Filament
You may have had to remove your filament during the Z-Offset Calibration. You’ll need to reinstall it by following the filament installation instructions under the filament heading on the main menu.
Step 10. Perform a Test Print
Here is a second critical phase. Create or use a print that will extend over a significant portion of the build plate platform. A basic square or rectangle that is 10 to 13 cm in the x and y axis could work as a test print (height can be less than 1 cm). Open the MakerBot Print program and place it in the center/middle of the Flex Build Plate surface.
I recommend using the default settings of the MakerBot Print to give you a baseline. This may depend upon the material you are trying to print with.
Start your test print.
CAUTION: If the extruder nozzle moves across the build plate and makes a catching noise on the grip surface as it moves, you’ll need to try and stop the test print. This means you have raised one side too high and you will need to lower the offending side some. Remove the incomplete print and then repeat steps 1 through 10 again and lower the offending side by either a ¼ or ½ turn of the screw during step 5. If your nozzle didn’t catch on your grip surface, you can move forward.
Upon completion of the print, If your print isn’t warped and stays attached to the grip surface, then congrats. You have successfully leveled your MakerBot Replicator+ 3D printer Flex Build Plate. You may have to do this from time to time if you notice this happening again as each Flex Build Plate tends to warp over time.
We hope this helps you guys. Let us know down below in the comments.
This ABSOLUTELY saved me. I had lost all hope that this bed was un-levelable. I had been dealing with warping for 6 months. And had tried EVERY option short of buying a different printer. Painters tape had been the closest to a “solution” but even then, the tape would often peel off the bed, resulting in warping, when printing larger parts. I knew my bed was not level because I could see the beading of the printed shells of the raft layer looked different from the front vs the back of the bed. The front (which was farther from the nozzle than the back) had a distinct beading, whereas the back of the print bed was pressed/smushed securely to the bed. Leveling the bed by turning the two allen screws just slightly. One comment I’ll make is that i had my printer on its back, and used the three smooth circles on the bed as sort of “test points” as i manually moved the extruder to each of them, to determine if the bed was level, rather than rely on a digital level. My test print, as a result, had uniform “squish” of the shells of the base raft layer, all the way around the print bed. Thanks for the post! I’ve watched every damn video online about warping, and this was the solution for the Makerbot Replicator+.
Hi Jimmy,
We’re glad we were able to help you solve this issue with your Makerbot Replicator+, and thank you for your feedback and your additional suggestions! We greatly appreciate you visiting our site. Please come back to read more of our articles, to ask questions, and/or leave comments.
I agree with Jimmy! I have tried everything else, including buying a new build plate. Thanks for saving me from making it a boat anchor.
We’re glad we were able to help you, Richard. Please let us know what else you’d like to see from our site. Thank you for your patronage.
This article made my two Engineering instructors very, very happy. As we move towards the end of the semester, we have a lot of student prints to do (obviously for grades) and there were some serious problems happening here. All good now! Thank you!!
Glad we could be of assistance!
Adjusting the back screw didn’t do anything for me. I also found this page on makerbot support to help test and adjust the level with a print. https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/Leveling-The-Replicator-Build-Plate