Welcome to Part 1 of RaveRobot’s Voron 2.4 build diary. In this post we will discuss sourcing of components for the build. What will you need, what should you look out for, and where are some good places to start your search.
Intro to Sourcing
You don’t usually buy a Voron, you build one. Kits exist but of questionable quality as vendors will often swap out parts from batch to batch depending on availability. At the time I built this printer most kits were done by a vendor buying up a bunch of components off the Bill of Materials (BoM) in bulk to save cost and then packing them together at a profit for themselves and a discount for you. This resulted in a huge variation of quality from batch to batch.
Voron Design does not endorse any kits, there is not an “official” Voron kit, if you see one advertised that way then the vendor is lying to you. If you do decide to get a kit plan to replace some components (electronics and bed especially) so factor it into your price savings. Self sourcing might be the ideal choice for many but it takes time and can cost more in some areas as you are not buying in bulk to reduce the cost of individual items.
I’m not going to tell you which option to take, that is your choice. I have opted to self source my build while selecting a few kits of common items (motion system, frame, motors) from reputable vendors to save me some hassle. Since my sourcing and built LDO has full kits available for Voron V0.1, Switchwire, and V2.4 printers and Fystec has a Voron Trident kit. From what I have seen these kits seem very good and reliable and are likely not a mistake but at the time of writing this I have no personal experience with them.
Voron Sourcing Guide
The absolute first thing you should do is to head over to Voron Design and use the configurator to create a Bill of Materials for the printer of your choice. There is a sourcing guide there as well with links to many of the items you will want. Below is the sheet I put together based off the BoM and some suggestions from the sourcing guide for components and vendors for my 300mm V2.4. I have added in some extras and removed a few things that I was reusing from other projects. Some items I used in my build are not readily available now (Phaetus Dragon hotend, SKR 1.4 boards, etc) so I’ve replaced them with the parts I would use if building a V2.4 today.
For some vendors I am going to say “Discord Vendor”. What this means is that this is a vendor I found through the Voron Discord that I have personally used for if not the specific item listed then other items and I had a pleasant experience with them. A list of the Discord vendors that I have bought from and will do so again is as follows: Printed Solid, DeepFriedHero.in, KB-3D, Filastruder, 3D Maker Parts.
Frame Sourcing
Voron V2.4 frames are made from 20 x 20mm aluminum extrusions. Ideally these are done with blind joints which means the extrusions are mounted flush to each other and screwed in place. This requires the extrusions to be drilled and/or tapped in certain areas so everything goes together. You can buy extrusions and do this bit yourself, you can buy them drilled and tapped from Misumi, or you can buy a pre-made frame kit with everything already done for you.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| LDO 300mm Frame Kit (Does Not Include DIN Rails) | 1 | Printed Solid |
| OR | ||
| OpenBuilds Angle Corner Connector | 4 | DFH |
| Misumi HFSB5-2020-290 | 1 | Misumi |
| DIN 3 Rails (35mm W) – 420mm | 2 | |
| Misumi HFSB5-2020-380 | 1 | Misumi |
| Misumi HFSB5-2020-400 | 2 | Misumi |
| Misumi HFSB5-2020-420-TPW | 10 | Misumi |
| Misumi HFSB5-2020-480-LCP-RCP | 4 | Misumi |
Fasteners
For fasteners (bolts, nuts, etc) the easiest solution currently for sourcing is going to be a kit. You may want spares for some of the fasteners so buying the kit and then grabbing a few spares of the common sizes would not be a bad idea.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| V2.4 Fastener Kit | 1 | Amazon |
| OR | ||
| M5x40 SHCS | 22 | Bolt Depot |
| M5x30 BHCS | 22 | Bolt Depot |
| M3x30 SHCS | 25 | Bolt Depot |
| M5x10 BHCS | 40 | Bolt Depot |
| M5x16 BHCS | 27 | Bolt Depot |
| M5 Hexnut | 26 | Bolt Depot |
| M3x12 SHCS | 23 | Bolt Depot |
| M5 x10 x1mm Washer Spacer | 42 | Bolt Depot |
| M2x10 Self-tapping Screw (US #2 3/8″) | 15 | Bolt Depot |
| M3x40 SHCS | 28 | Bolt Depot |
| M3 Washer | 2 | Bolt Depot |
| M3x20 SHCS | 29 | Bolt Depot |
| M3x16 SHCS | 14 | Bolt Depot |
| M3x8 SHCS | 209 | Bolt Depot |
| M3 Hexnut | 7 | Bolt Depot |
| M4x6 BHCS | 4 | Bolt Depot |
| M3x6 BHCS | 6 | Bolt Depot |
| M5 T-nut HNTAJ5-5 | 61 | DFH |
| M3 T-nut HNTAJ5-3 | 112 | DFH |
| M3 Threaded Insert | 90 | DFH |
| M4 Knurled Nut (DIN 466-B) | 4 | DFH |
| M3 Hammer Head T-nuts | 47 | DFH |
Motion System Components
As with the fasteners it will likely be easier and cheaper to grab a motion systems kit with all the required components. You might want an additional pulley or set of belts but the kit will get you what you need and then you can just grab a few spares from various vendors.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| V2.4 Motion Kit | 1 | Amazon |
| OR | ||
| GT2 20T Pulley (5mm ID 6mm W) | 3 | DFH |
| F695 Bearing | 20 | DFH |
| GT2 20T Toothed Idler (5mm ID 6mm W) | 2 | DFH |
| GT2 20T Toothed Idler (5mm ID 9mm W) | 4 | DFH |
| 625 Bearing | 12 | DFH |
| 5x60mm Shaft | 4 | DFH |
| GT2 16T Pulley (5mm ID 6mm W) | 4 | DFH |
| GT2 80T Pulley (5mm ID 6mm W) | 4 | DFH |
| GT2 20T Pulley (5mm ID 9mm W) | 4 | DFH |
| GT2 Belt Loop (6mm W) – 188mm | 4 | DFH |
| 5x30mm Shaft | 1 | DFH |
| GT2 Open Belt LL-2GT-9 (9mm wide) – 1010mm | 4 | DFH |
| GT2 Open Belt LL-2GT-6 (6mm wide) – 1800mm | 2 | DFH |
Sourcing Extruder Gear Components
You can save yourself a few dollars buying a BMG kit if you would like and these are often alright but the quality control and consistency can be a bit lacking compared to BondTech’s official offering. Personally I would recommend getting the genuine gears, the rest of the parts such as the thumbscrew or shaft are not nearly as critical and you can go cheaper if you would like. Those components tend to be the less expensive ones though so not a lot of savings there.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| BMG Extruder Kit | 1 | Amazon or DFH |
| OR | ||
| BMG Drive gear 1.75/5mm | 1 | Amazon |
| BMG Thumbscrew | 1 | DFH |
| BMG Shaft/Idler Assembly | 1 | Printed Solid |
| BMG Motor Gear | 1 | Printed Solid |
| BMG Ballbearing 5x8x2.5 | 2 | DFH |
Linear Rails
Linear rails are one of the key motion components on your system. Cheaper rails can be sourced and used if you would like but both RoboDigg and LDO make excellent rails at a reasonable price. If you are building the Voron V2.4 revision 2 then you will actually need 6 of these rails and then a single MGN12H rail of the same size. I built a 300mm system so my rails are 350mm. If you are doing a different size build then you’ll need to adjust the size of the rails (consult the BoM when you configure your system).
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| RoboDigg Linear Rail MGN9H 350mm | 8 | Amazon |
| OR | ||
| LDO Linear Rail MGN9H 350mm | 8 | Printed Solid |
Electronics
Electronics, we need to talk about safety here a bit. There are many places where buying a cheap electronics item (micro switch, inductive probe, fan, etc) might be acceptable and if things go wrong you are out a few dollars and need to just get a new item. Then there are places where if you buy the cheap knock off and it fails you burn your house down. You want to avoid that, we want you to as well. Anything associated with mains power (solid state relay, 24V power supply, power inlet and switch) should be high quality and from a reputable vendor wherever possible. It’s not worth saving $50 off a $1500 printer if the thing is a firebug, you are building a Voron not an Anet A8, choose responsibly.
I deviated from the BoM a bit here as I decided I wanted to use the large Raspberry Pi touch screen that I used on my Ender 3 and because of that I was going to need to mount the Pi differently than suggested. I used the standard Pi power supply instead of the 5V suggested PSU. If you are building the V2.4 revision 2 with the 12mm X-axis rail then you will need an Omron Inductive probe and not the PL-05N2 probe that I used.
I used dual SKR 1.4 boards for my controller but those are difficult to source now and the BigTreeTech Octopus board is basically designed for a V2 so that’s a better option and honestly I would have used one had it been out when I did my sourcing. Additionally due to legal issues with Slice Engineering the Phaetus Dragon is not readily available in certain markets like the United States. The Phaetus Dragonfly would be an excellent substitution, either the BMS or BMO should work, just make sure you have the right hotend mount for the one you select.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| NEMA17 Motor 17HS19-2004S | 6 (included in kit) | Printed Solid |
| SPDT KW10 Limit Micro Switch | 3 | Mouser |
| PL-05N2 Inductive Probe | 1 | Amazon |
| Phaetus Dragonfly BMS/BMO Hotend Kit | 1 | Amazon |
| 24V 50W Heater Cartridge | 3 | Amazon |
| NTC 100k ohm B390 Thermistor | 3 | Amazon |
| 40x40x20 Centrifugal Fan (24V) | 1 | Amazon |
| 40x40x10 Axial Fan (24V) | 1 | Amazon |
| Mini 12864 Display | 1 | Amazon |
| Power Fuse | 1 | Amazon |
| Power Switch | 1 | Mouser |
| Inlet Power Socket IEC320 C14 | 1 | Mouser |
| 60x60x20 Fan (24V) | 3 | Amazon |
| BigTreeTech Octopus V1.1 Control Board | 1 | Amazon |
| TMC2209 Stepper Motor Driver | 7 | Amazon |
| RaspberryPi 4 (4GB) | 1 | Amazon |
| RaspberryPi 4 Power Supply | 1 | Amazon |
| RaspberryPi 7″ Touch Screen | 1 | Amazon |
| Mean Well LRS-200-24 PSU | 1 | Amazon |
| Omron G3A-210B-DC5 SSR | 1 | DFH |
| DIN Rail Mount Bracket for G3A SSR | 1 | Amazon |
| BAT85 Diode | 1 | Amazon |
| Thermal Fuse (120C) | 1 | Amazon |
| NEMA17 Motor 17HS08-1004S | 1 (included in kit) | Printed Solid |
| Filament Runout Detector (Optional) | 1 | Amazon |
| Smart Filament Runout Detector (Optional) | 1 | Amazon |
Miscellaneous Components
Some of the items here are optional but for the most part everything is pretty self explanatory. I did buy the wrong VHB tape for my build (it was clear not solid black or white) and it has not held up well, the link below is the correct item but it will not visually match the images of my build.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| Rubber Compressor Foot | 4 | Amazon |
| 4mm Bowden Coupler | 1 | Amazon |
| Bowden Tube 100mm Piece (For Afterburner Hotend) | 1 | Amazon |
| 3M VHB Tape 4910 | 1 | Amazon |
| Loctite Blue Threadlocker Stick | 1 | Amazon |
| Mobil EP1 or EP2 Grease | 1 | Amazon |
| SuperLube PTFE Grease | 1 | Amazon |
| 24v LED Lights (Optional) | 1 | Amazon |
| 6x3mm Neodimium Magnet | 8 | Amazon |
| PTFE Tube (4mm OD 3mm ID) – 1m for Spool Holder | 1 | Amazon |
| Accelerometer (Optional) | 1 | Amazon |
Wiring
There are a lot of small components here, especially when getting into the crimping. While you can buy all these items individually one pin or connector at a time, I’ve linked kits which have more than you need and allow for the inevitable messed up crimps and needing to redo things. For wiring the BoM will likely still be suggesting silicone wiring. This is fine for non motion components (running wires to your exhaust fan) but it is not ideal for in drag chains. PTFE wire is by far preferred and while slightly more expensive it’ll save you a ton of headaches down the road.
The BoM also doesn’t call out for the wiring that is to be used for the power inlet and around the electronics case, I’ve added a link here for the wire set that I used. There are vendors who sell pre-made wiring harnesses as well. Depending on your boards and other components you may need to still do some crimping but these can save a lot of time if you don’t enjoy that sort of thing, just make sure its PTFE or FEP wire.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| Nylon Cable Ties 4″ | 40 | Amazon |
| 20AWG PTFE Cable (10ft total) | 100 | Amazon |
| 24AWG PTFE Cable (250ft total) | 250 | Amazon |
| 18AWG PVC Cable (multi color pack) | 25 | Amazon |
| Spade Crimp Terminal 4.8mm Female | 7 | Amazon |
| Quick Connector Insulated | 10 | Amazon |
| JST XH Connector Plug 4 Position | 7 | Amazon |
| JST XH Connector Plug 2 Position | 6 | Amazon |
| JST XH Female Pin | 40 | Amazon |
| Wago Connector Kit (10×2, 10×3, 5×5) | 1 | Amazon |
| Microfit Kit | 1 | DFH |
| MicroFit3 Connector Plug 4 Position | 4 (included in kit) | Mouser |
| MicroFit3 Connector Plug 3 Position | 1 (included in kit) | Mouser |
| MicroFit3 Connector Plug 2 Position | 2 (included in kit) | Mouser |
| MicroFit3 Connector Receptacle 4 Position | 4 (included in kit) | Mouser |
| MicroFit3 Connector Receptacle 3 Position | 1 (included in kit) | Mouser |
| MicroFit3 Connector Receptacle 2 Position | 2 (included in kit) | Mouser |
| MicroFit3 Female Pin | 40 (included in kit) | Mouser |
| MicroFit3 Male Pin | 40 (included in kit) | Mouser |
| IGUS E2i-10-10-018-0 Chain (355mm [1.16ft]) 25 links | 2 | Amazon |
| IGUS E2-15-10-028-0 Chain (495mm [1.62ft]) 19 links | 1 | Amazon |
| Reflect-A-Gold Thermal Tape | 1 | Amazon |
| Heat Shrink | 1 | Amazon |
Panels
Panels are something you can source a number of places so if you have a local cutter who will do them, go for it. Printed Solid has excellent panels sets and the Aluminum Composite Material (ACM) panel sets to replace the BoM suggested coroplast (corrugated plastic) are a great upgrade and I completely recommend them.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| Aluminum Composite Panel Set | 1 | Printed Solid |
| Cleat Acrylic Panel Set | 1 | Printed Solid |
Build Plate
The cast aluminum bed that is suggested for Voron printers can be sourced many places and if you are willing to drill and tap it then you might find a better deal. Mandala Roseworks has a bed ready to go that works for both the V2.4 and Trident and it was beautiful. Keenovo silicone heaters are the suggested heaters for Voron printers and order direct from them is easy but the shipping can take a while. You may be able to find a local vendor with these heaters so shopping around isn’t a bad idea but keep in mind these are mains powered and this is one of those places we don’t cheap out.
The vendor who I bought my magnet from sadly doesn’t sell them any more but I have a Printed Solid magnet on my Ultimaker S5 and I have found it to be a quality product. If you like a textured build surface like I do then Ultistik is the way to go for your spring steel. If you don’t then go with a Wham Bam smooth PEI sheet, I’ve got one of each. I did try a BuildTak textured PEI sheet for a while before I swapped to Ultistik and I do not recommend it, bad adhesion no matter what I did and even when the vendor swapped it for a replacement I wasn’t happy with it.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| MIC6 5/16″ Plate – 12″x12″ | 1 | DFH or Mandala Roseworks |
| Keenovo Silicone AC Heater w/ thermistor – 240x240mm (600W) | 1 | Keenovo |
| High Temp Adhesive Magnet | 1 | Printed Solid |
| Ultistik 310mm Spring Steel Powdercoated PEI Sheet | 1 | Amazon |
| RTV Compound | 1 | Amazon |
Tools
There are a lot of tools you will need to build a Voron printer. This isn’t an Ender 3 kit where everything comes in the box. Good crimpers, wire strippers, hex keys, etc are all going to be key to a good experience. You will need a soldering iron for doing heat set inserts but I don’t recommend a high quality one, just get something cheap with a tip that’ll work. I’ve linked a decent one that will also accept a heatset tip which is a nice quality of life upgrade.
Cutters, files, deburring tools are all standard stuff for printed parts and you probably already have some but if not you’ll want them. There are a few places where soldering actual components (accelerometer, LED lights, inductive probe diode) will be needed and having a good soldering iron will make you happier but you could use the cheap one if you wished. A multimeter for checking continuity on wires and ensuring you have the right voltage on your power supply is also a must.
| Item Name | Number To Order | Vendor Link |
| Engineer PA-09 Crimper | 1 | Amazon |
| Ferrule Crimper | 1 | Amazon |
| Wire Strippers | 1 | Amazon |
| Wiha Metric Hex Key Set | 1 | Amazon |
| Soldering Iron (for heat sets) | 1 | Amazon |
| M3 Heatset Tip | 1 | Amazon |
| Flush Cutter | 1 | Amazon |
| File Set | 1 | Amazon |
| Super Glue | 1 | Amazon |
| Deburring Tool | 1 | Amazon |
| Multimeter | 1 | Amazon |
| Soldering Iron (for wires/boards) | 1 | Amazon |
Sourcing Materials For Printed Parts
Your parts must be printed in ABS, ASA, or ABS+. People always ask if you can use PLA (no), PETG (no), or Nylon (no). Why are these out of the question? The parts were designed with the properties of ABS in mind (strength, flexibility, heat resistance, and shrinkage).
PLA while strong will deform over time and has very poor temperature resistance. Sure you could anneal it to get the heat resistance but you will deform your parts and make them functionally useless. PETG, while more heat resistant will still have trouble in an enclosed Voron. Sure you could leave the panels off and not enclose it but PETG is also a bit too flexible and it’ll deform under the stress that a Voron will exhibit at high accelerations.
Nylon sounds like a good idea, it’s fairly strong and heat resistant. Unfortunately it’s still too flexible and subject to creep where the parts will deform under the long term strain of the belts and such. Carbon fiber or glass fiber versions of these rejected filaments will sound like they can compensate and to some extent they will but at the end of the day you will likely still have problems. Prominent members of the Voron and YouTube communities have tried this and failed. Usually the reason people want an alternate plastic is because they don’t have a printer capable of ABS printing.
What If I Can’t Print ABS?
I fell into this category as my trusty Ender 3 just can’t handle long (more than 2hrs) of ABS prints without something overheating. Luckily the Voron team have thought of this and they have a wonderful program called Print It Forward (PiF). For a very reasonable fee they will print a set of functional parts for any of the current Voron line up.
It can be a bit of a wait (2.5 months in my case in the United States) but the parts were very high quality and the price was ridiculously good for what I got. A lot of the stuff you will be buying will take time to ship and arrive so if considering PiF jump in the queue early so you start that clock (you can back out later w/o any penalties). If you are having issues with ABS look into eSun ABS+, it’s a bit friendlier to print and doesn’t smell as strongly.
Once you have all your parts ordered, start printing and then sit back and wait until the packages arrive.
Voron Build Diary Guide
- 1 – Sourcing Your Parts
- 2 – Building the Frame
- 3 – Assembling the Z-Motion System
- 4 – Assembly and Installation of the X/Y Gantry
- 5 – The Afterburner Direct Drive Extruder
- 6 – Wiring and Electronics
- 7 – Klipper Firmware Installation and Test Flight
- 8 – Printer Tuning and Finishing Touches (Coming Soon)
